Bainser - Menswear Style Blog

Ever wondered why us fashion folk can be a little oddly dressed?...

Thu, 24 May 2012 16:18:31 +0100

Ever wondered why us fashion folk can be a little oddly dressed? It’s the hottest day of the year but we’re already thinking about winter, while the designers are working on next Summer, & the forecasters are looking at the following Winter! It’s a wonder we know what day of the week it is! (Taken with instagram)

Tuesday Want // Bottega Veneta // Mr Porter

Tue, 22 May 2012 11:32:00 +0100

New arrivals email from good oul Mr Porter drops into the inbox and what do I see but this beauty from Bottega! Now to hunt around for a spare £260 to spoil myself. That or get my good friend to let me ‘borrow’ one from the store you know for the great publicity etc I would give it on during the summer season.

I will however ignore the just in Hunters! I have (misplaced) faith the current sunshine will hold!

Summer 2012 sunnies by @dolcegabbanaofficial (Taken with...

Sun, 20 May 2012 16:48:28 +0100

Summer 2012 sunnies by @dolcegabbanaofficial (Taken with instagram)

Orlebar Brown // Mr Porter // Summer Swim Shorts

Tue, 01 May 2012 17:45:57 +0100

Summer is coming, no really it is, somewhere beyond the rain, somewhere where the Gulf Stream returns to it’s proper place, there is summer. Like some long lost cousin we will welcome it with open arms, when it finally arrives. I mean ok it’s only just May and technically summer doesn’t start for at least another month but that’s beside the point.

I don’t like waiting for anything least of all sunshine, my Maltese heritage means I long for the summer months. But on the plus side it means I can save up for these! Orlebar Brown are one of, if not my favourite mens swimwear brands. Luxurious and stylish, they perfectly manage that awkward pool/lunch/cocktail combo.

So with this in mind it’s no great surprise that Mr Porter have teamed up with them for a stunning capsule collection. Comprising of 6 pieces Orelbar Brown have worked with the David hicks estate, the graphic prints make a great addition to anyones wardrobe. I saw them at the recent Mr Porter party and frankly the only problem may be that pretty much every menswear blogger attending is currently hatching plans to make them their own. Priced aat £160 for the shorts and £260 for the jacket they’re sure to sell out soon.

Braces shirt from Unconditional. This has leapt to the top of my...

Sat, 28 Apr 2012 14:32:13 +0100

Braces shirt from Unconditional. This has leapt to the top of my wish list. In fact while we’re at it, can I have those trousers too please. I promise I’ll look almost as good as him! (Taken with instagram)

London Collections: Men // Schedule // Like Christmas but Better

Wed, 25 Apr 2012 10:59:30 +0100

Ever since the London Collections: Men was formally announced I’ve been like that now irritating child from the John Lewis advert. Thankfully I’m not alone, it’s been pretty much the number one topic at every event I’ve attended since February.

Yesterday the schedule was announced, with The Hospital Club acting as the main BFC Showspace for a huge number of shows (and of course the essential parties!). There was always a concern that despite London’s depth of talent things could go awry jumping from one, admittedly over crowded, day to a full three! But with names like Dunhill, Mr Start, Hackett, Orlebar Brown, Sibling, Topman, JW Anderson and more any concerns have long since flown out the window. Now it’s just a matter of keeping calm until June. That and spending my time figuring out what to wear over those three days!

See below for the provisional schedule, or click through to London Collections: Men for more details.

Thursday 14th June

17.45 Launch event hosted by HRH The Prince of Wales Private Invitation Only
20.00-23.00 Topman opening reception Private Invitation Only

Friday 15th June

09.00-10.00 Stephen Webster breakfast presentation W1
AM Burberry Timepieces presentation By appointment
10.00-16.00 Savile Row presentations W1
10.30 Lou Dalton Salon Show WC2 : BFC Show Space, The Hospital Club
11.00-19.00 Fashion East Men installations
12.00 TOPMAN Design WC1 : Topman Venue
12.30-14.30 Orlebar Brown Presentation W1
13.00 Hackett WC2
14.00 Martine Rose Salon Show WC2 : BFC Show Space, The Hospital Club
15.00 Oliver Spencer WC1 : Topman Venue
15.30-17.30 Joseph Abboud Presentation
16.00 YMC W1
16.30-18.00 Paul Smith in conversation with Private invitation
17.00 Spencer Hart
18.00-20.00 Superdry + Timothy Everest W1
18.00 Xander Zhou WC2 : BFC Show Space, The Hospital Club
19.00 Dunhill W1

Saturday 16th June

09.00-18.00 Fashion East Men installations
09.00 Sibling WC2 : BFC Show Space, The Hospital Club
10.00 E. Tautz
11.00 MAN WC1 : Topman Venue
11.30-14.30 Aitor Throup presentation
12.00 Katie Eary
13.00 Mr Start WC2 : BFC Show Space, The Hospital Club
14.00 Jonathan Saunders
15.00 Christopher Shannon WC1 : Topman Venue
16.00 RAKE
17.00 Matthew Miller Salon Show WC2 : BFC Show Space, The Hospital Club
17.00-19.00 Timothy Everest presentation
18.00 James Long WC1 : Topman Venue
19.00 Thom Browne presentation
20.00 Belstaff Collection Preview

Sunday 17th June

09.00 JW Anderson WC2
9.30 - 11.30 A Sauvage presentation
10.00 Omar Kashoura salon show W1
10.30 - 12.30 Cassette Playa digital presentation WC2 : BFC Digital Space, The Hospital Club
11.00 Margaret Howell W1
11.00 - 14.00 Christopher Kane Collection Preview W1
12.00 Tommy Hilfiger presentation
13.00 Pringle of Scotland
14.00 - 17.00 Richard Nicoll presentation
14.00 Hardy Amies W1
14.30 - 16.30 Liberty London presentation W1
16.00 Nicole Farhi
17.00 Richard James W1
18.00 Christopher Raeburn
18.30 - 20.30 Burberry Event hosted by Christopher Bailey Private Invitation Only
20.30 GQ Dinner hosted by Calvin Klein Private Invitation Only

#londoncollections

Persol // Sunnies // Wants

Tue, 24 Apr 2012 17:01:21 +0100

My gorgeous RayBans were recently liberated from my possession by a here to yet unknown felon. If I were the forgiving kind I’d wish them well. In this instance I most certainly am not as I really loved those sunnies, so I hope the blaggard is cursed with some pox, or at best being ridiculously unphotogenic everytime they were my glasses.

In the meantime the hunt for something new goes on, these Persols fit the bill very nicely. I may just have to persuade the hubby to avoid wearing his plain black ones when we’re out together.

These shoes are beautiful! Clean simple lines, unique styling,...

Tue, 24 Apr 2012 15:56:44 +0100

These shoes are beautiful! Clean simple lines, unique styling, new and interesting without being too outrageous. Ticking every box for me.

thestylebuff:

London-based design practice Doshi Levien have collaborated with bespoke shoemakers John Lobb Ltd to create this range of shoes, entitled Apprentice.

Epic wants for this Coach bag! (seen in @shortlist) (Taken with...

Thu, 19 Apr 2012 09:31:51 +0100

Epic wants for this Coach bag! (seen in @shortlist) (Taken with instagram)

The @elevenparis collection was gorgeous today. (Taken with...

Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:18:37 +0100

The @elevenparis collection was gorgeous today. (Taken with instagram)

Thank you @mrporterlive for the lovely #miansi anchor! Love it!...

Fri, 23 Mar 2012 17:15:08 +0000

Thank you @mrporterlive for the lovely #miansi anchor! Love it! Also loved the party on Monday! Great to see soo many Menswear digital people in the same space! (Taken with instagram)

Still loving this Storm watch! Need to get its steam punk...

Thu, 22 Mar 2012 06:06:00 +0000

Still loving this Storm watch! Need to get its steam punk inspired loveliness on my wrist in the not too distant future! (Taken with instagram)

Pose // Menswear // Independent Success

Fri, 02 Mar 2012 11:52:30 +0000

Well written and genuine emails from people asking me to cover their brand are always gratefully received. Especially when its clear the person has actually read this site and are interested in what I do. Pose London was one such brand, a great independent label, with two stores in London already, one in Camden and one in Islington.

Ok so I’ve not yet been to their stores, but I fully intend to make a visit soon. They describe themselves as not being high fashion, but the suits and tailoring they are making is definitely directional. Clever use of seams, and small intricate details are really special in menswear. It’s all about the quirks that set your suit or shirt apart from the guy next door. By the looks of it these are also difficult to get right details from a pattern cutting perspective. Believe me when I say I know this, a curved seam is a sight to behold but in terms of pattern cutting can be a right pain in the arse. Especially if you are looking to create volume with it. Do it wrong and suddenly your beautiful crafted jacket makes David Gandy look like the fabled resident of Notre Dame. Even worse you may not discover this until the final garment is made.

You can see what I’m on about in the above shot of Matt Di Angelo, Lucien Laviscount and Ashley Walters, all of whom looking great in Pose. Though Matt could’ve worn a shirt, and pulled up his trousers a little. Then again it’s mid party so I guess I’ll forgive him that.

With shirts from £79, and jackets in the £345 price bracket they aren’t cheap, but then they aren’t too expensive either. The thing is what you are paying for is the skills of pattern cutting and the fact the collections are not mass produced on any great scale. Meaning the likelihood of you bumping into anyone in the same suit is minuscule. Which is luxury in itself these days. For those of you that can’t get to London they thankfully have an transactional website. I’m already eying up a hooded tweed jacket, which is something I’ve been hunting for a while. Though I’ll probably just head into the store to double check the fit.

Thing is they aren’t just about great suits and tailoring, the shirts they have on offer have a great fitted look. Bold design in geek meets English gent kind of way. And the shoes! Ok so these are more expensive than I normally pay, so may have to do land a big freelance job and treat myself to some after the cheque clears. Genuinely flicking through the online shop the shoes really stood out, I desperately want the above boot, their massive military boots and a pair of the hi-tops. (Actually that better be one or two freelance jobs!)

Anyway that’s frankly enough from me on the subject. But then I’ve always been about championing the independent retailers and designers, and these guys certainly hit the nail on the head.

Smith-Wykes // Menswear // Ones to Watch

Thu, 01 Mar 2012 17:44:00 +0000

Way back in the land before time (aka Fashion Week) I visited the Jacket Required show. A brilliant showcase of new menswear design from established brands such as Oliver Spencer and Mr Start there were a few I had genuinely never heard of, and amongst those one or two brands launching their very first collection. Genuinely it’s not laziness not covering these brands until now. I just didn’t want these great menswear designers to vanish in the sea of London Fashion Week. So over the coming days and weeks I’ll be posting my reviews of the collections I saw. Not just established menswear collections but also one’s to watch.

One of these was the very lovely Smith-Wykes, in a sea of the new Scandi-lite heritage brands this collection really stood out for me. Inspired by and large by early Woody Allen films the collection revels in a slightly geeky sphere, and also draws from the burgeoning rise of Scandi style.

Based between London and Paris the brand has been founded by Rory Wykes & Michael Smith are really driven in their brand ideas. Rory has a great menswear background having worked for the likes of Baracuta and Carven. Meanwhile Michael, originally from New York now living in Paris, brings a business edge and an eye for upcoming artists and musicians. Music and fashion have gone hand in hand since before Anna was an editor, and it’s great to see a collection having a definite soundtrack.

The tailoring is sharp yet soft, the shirting is of a great quality, and having tried on the above check flannel harrington their cut is great. As ever it’s about being slim and fitted without being skinny. I often end up asking brands if their fit is actually true to size, a small ask may be, but one some brands are way off. I never ever want to go up a size when trying things on. Yes this may be vain, but I’m sure I’m not the only one that thinks this.

The colour palette ranges from strong blues to gingers, ambers then back to more commercial greys. The colours are all strong and will form a great core to your winter wardrobe. More importantly the pricing structure of the brand will be very reasonable in terms of luxe sportswear and heritage brands. Jeans should retail around £110.

My favourite pieces were certainly the check harrington, navy hoody and fur trimmed Caban jacket. This is brand I really hope this brand grows well in their opening season. Oh and remember where you heard of Smith-Wykes first.

Decks // Money // Shoes Spring Summer 12

Wed, 29 Feb 2012 16:28:43 +0000

Each summer it’s a battle to find new decks, honestly sometimes they’re worse to find than jeans. In all honesty I almost always fall back to my trusty Cons, you cant fail with them. Also they are the shoe of choice for most editors when Somerset House cobblestones and fatigue proves too much for even the most ardent high heel advocate.

But this summer I might just be swayed away from the old faithful. Money are for the first time expanding into footwear. Maybe it’s my yearning for a return to the days when I could actually use a skateboard without looking like some numpty clinging onto their youth, but I’m really loving these. Available online from their store the shoes come in four classic colours, have a great low profile and super fine leather inners. I’m also quite partial to the money logo on the back.

As much as I’d love to, you cant spend every day in boots, or Mr Hare (oh to have the cash to do that!!) and these look just right for the job. A true test of a product for me is when I look at it can I build an outfit in my head. I’ve already chalked up three different looks all of which have me yearning for the summer sun, BBQs, Pimms and picnics in the park. Win and at £45, they aren’t going to wound your pocket either.

It’s odd my taste is veering from directional to preppy via media gay right now, so heaven knows what I’ll actually be wearing come the summer months! But I’ll be sure to keep you posted.

Les Garcons de Glasgow // Papped // Bainser

Sun, 26 Feb 2012 13:53:35 +0000

One of the strangest parts of London Fashion Week is walking through the arches to a myriad of street style photographers. I honestly think one day someone is going to get runover by one of the Mercedes LFW Cars!

Having chatted with Jon over twitter for the last couple of months it was great to finally meet him, and I was more than happy to stop (in fact quite flattered) and have my photo taken for his brilliant streetstyle site.

Bottega Veneta’s new lookbook is weighty! Looking forward...

Sun, 26 Feb 2012 11:58:16 +0000

Bottega Veneta’s new lookbook is weighty! Looking forward to leafing through it drooling over luxury I can’t yet afford. #fashion #menswear #luxury (Taken with instagram)

#LFW ate my @nudiejeans :0( #menswear #jeans (Taken with...

Fri, 24 Feb 2012 12:43:00 +0000

#LFW ate my @nudiejeans :0( #menswear #jeans (Taken with instagram)

Prophetik // London Fashion Week // Autumn Winter 2012

Thu, 23 Feb 2012 23:35:00 +0000

Being made to wait until menswear day can be torture for me. Day after day at London Fashion Week, wonderful creative pieces flow past me, all brilliant and all out of my reach unless I decide on a major shift in lifestyle. So any glimpse of something, anything I could potentially add to my over stuffed wardrobe is welcomed with open arms. Prophetik early, (ok ok 10.30) Sunday morning was one such delight. Now before I start can I just say I am an avid supporter of conservation, raising awareness of animals plight, and indeed collaboration between fashion and anything charitable. In light of this I learnt that the plural of rhino is rhino, and that the rate at which rhino are being poached has escalated to truly horrific levels due to ridiculous beliefs in the medicinal powers of rhino horn. This must stop now, or in less than fifteen years wild rhino will be extinct. I also learnt I never want to see a mutilated rhino carcass before breakfast again. So thank you Prophetik for bringing the issue to my attention, I guess I’ll just have to man up regarding the second part.

Courtly Love was the title of the collection and we were transported to a time post revolution when the French aristocracy were clinging onto what they knew, for a joint menswear and womenswear collection. Dilapidated grandeur is a swift way to my heart. Miss Havisham tattered damask silks, some grubby knees and evocations of bygone glories are a quick way to inspire me. Maybe it’s the thought of love lost, who knows? Whether a dip-dyed empire line gown the colour of encroaching mold or stunning threadbare dress that evoked images of a dramatic night time escape from the family chateau, this collection contained beautifully twisted elements of this. Unfortunately, whether it was through fabric selection, fabrication or construction as a whole the collection sailed too close to costume for me.

Still brimful of literal historical references the menswear by and large avoided a similar fate. There may be more longevity in such pieces of menswear than womens who knows? Maybe I was giddy with the thought of some clothes I could actually wear. Kilts almost risqué in their shortness, a chunky yet light knit over black militaristic jodhpurs, and cropped Westwood like jackets, all made their way down the catwalk and could quite easily find their way on to my wishlist. In particular the black and white check coat and waistcoat, working brilliantly over the high waisted trousers. This is before we even mention the magnificent embellished charcoal great. Which garnered knowing looks amongst the front row attendees. This was something covetable, and could quite easily be fought over once the collection hits the stores. I would happily have lifted it off the models shoulders right there and then, if I thought I could have gotten away with it.

Prophetik needs time and space to continue to grow, London Fashion Week and Vauxhall Fashion Scout are great incubators of talent so next season should be stronger. Bizarrely the menswear succeeded in it’s rebirth of past times, where this caused the womenswear to flounder slightly. It’s hard to win a battle on more than one front, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be done.

Topman Design // London Fashion Week // Menswear

Wed, 22 Feb 2012 19:38:31 +0000

Ok so it’s a blurry shot from my iPhone, but for me this jacket was one of the highlights of a great Topman show. I’ll review the rest once I’ve sorted out my photos including the fact myself and Style Cupid, had a great view to admire the always tasty Mr David Gandy!

In the meantime here is the beautiful ponyskin biker jacket, I immediately tweeted about! I love it.