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Milan Menswear // Dolce & Gabbana // Handpicked // Thanks

Dolce & Gabbana // Mario Vivianco

It is without doubt exciting times this Christmas at Bainser.com HQ, (that sounds like I have some swanky office my MacBook on my lap isn’t quite as glamorous if more truthful). Over the last two years I’ve ranted and raved about Menswear. The rights and wrongs, I’ve gone to fashion shows, fallen in love with styling details, interviewed some inspiring individuals such as Nick Wooster, partied, nearly been gobbed on by a model (at the Child of Jago show) and doled out sartorial advice, all in all its happy times. 

But 2012 is the time to move it on, so I’ve happily joined the Handpicked Media stable and look forward to working with everyone there. Following this 2012 is starting on a high, my first visit to a fashion week outside of London. I’ve graciously been invited to attend Dolce & Gabbana’s show and I couldnt book my flights soon enough! That’s all done now and I’m counting down the days. I’ll be in Milan for the 14th and 15th Jan so if any other PRs would be even remotely interested in squeezing me in to their shows please let me know. As corny as it is I want to say thanks to the likes of Melanie Rickey & Lee Kynaston who have been great mentors and givers of advice in the last six months to really get things moving.

Enough about me though, scroll back up and check out this great shot by the very talented Mariano Vivanco. This is his first Dolce & Gabbana campaign (though not the first time he’s worked with the house) and it stars a whole bevvy of Italian filmstars. If some brands are about music, Dolce & Gabbana is certainly all about the glamour of the Italian screen. The innate beauty in this shot is wonderful. Having a Maltese grandmother this kind of Mediterranean family scene reminds me of home. You know this family may feud like a Kardashian in front of reality TV camera but they’re loyal to a fault. 

Menswear // Milan Spring Summer 2012 // Bainser’s Picks

Pitti has been done and dusted, and once I’ve trawled through the countless blogs and street shots I’ll distill some key trends from the fashionistos present. Camo cargo pants and a navy jacket made a reappearance this season as well as a lot of bold colour blocking. But hot on Pitti’s heels come the menswear shows in Milan. I loved some shows, was a bit meh at others and was thoroughly disappointed with one in particular.

So what can you expect from Milan? Well Versace and Cavalli will be bold eurotrash, Armani will be classic and stylish whilst the D Squared boys will show a barely disguised 30 minutes of homoerotic lust. Not bad for a few days work really.

Shorts

Being Spring Summer Shorts were in abundance. From D&G’s silk/denim hybrids to Bally’s tailored short shorts, (Top Center Right & Left respectively), there was plenty to choose from. Missoni (Far right) & D Squared (Center bottom left) both showed luxe sheen fabrics, with Vivienne Westwood (Far left) and Marni (Center bottom right) showing a more clean crisp white look.

Personally am loving the fact the length of mens shorts is remaining mid thigh. Sure it means a bit more time needs to be spent in the gym but there is nothing wrong with seeing plenty of leg in the summertime.

Knits

Lightweight summer knits are brilliant especially considering the slightly erratic nature of the British weather at the moment. I mean c’mon its nearly the end of June, and those whinging of a drought have long since drowned under the torrents. My faves? The Gucci v-neck (bottom row right), McQueen stripe (far right large image), Pringle’s new fractured argyle (top row left). Armani (top centre), Band of Outsiders (top right), and Iceberg (bottom left) are all great, with Moschino’s summer cardigan really surprising me. In general I’m neither a fan of theirs or short sleeves on anything bar Tshirts. But this really works!

Formalwear

Oh baby yeah, from the structured to the more relaxed, insane prints, and that great cropped double breasted jacket from Z Zegna (middle). I love it all. In fact I even loved a bit of Cavalli (top left), which I almost never do! The Moschino print (top left) is crazy brilliant. You’ll only be able to wear this look once or twice but you will be the centre of the party when you do. Westwood (bottom left) triumphed with some great British tailoring and several brilliantly cut suits. Iceberg’s unstructured jackets (centre right, bottom left) brought a needed lightness to tailoring, whilst Etro’s (centre right) black on black detailing was brilliantly subtle.

Outerwear

Having endured weather that would make Noah wince over the last few weeks the need for a lightweight summer jacket has never been more obvious. Thank you Costume National (centre) for this gorgeous lightweight and soft trench. Armani (top & bottom right) really brought newness to the biker jacket and had great surface detailing. Whilst John Varvatos took my breath away with his lengthening almost buttery soft jackets (Centre right, bottom left). They looked warm and breathable, perfect for a summers evening. Bally’s leather hoodie (centre right) is something I’ve been coveting for a long time, I just didn’t know it yet. And as for Neil Barrett’s two tone cropped trench, well I’ve already yabbered on about it in another post.

Of course a round up of the Milan shows wouldnt be complete without a gratuitous Gandy shot. A legend now immortalised in a Dolce & Gabanna book the man is fantastic!

All Photos: Style.com