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Vivienne Westwood // Autumn Winter 2012 // Milano

Sunday during Menswear Week in Milan was freezing! Properly cold, so I was thankful of my Dr Martens and thick socks. A suitable footwear choice for Vivienne I thought. The setting was a very beautiful Palazzo Serbelloni on Corso Venezia. I arrived a little early so headed for some pasta based nourishment. It was oh so good. More amusingly it gave me the chance to witness those random moments when the Fashion and Real Worlds collide. The looks cast by both parties was a sight to behold. 

Outside the Palazzo the crowd gathered teeth chattering, avid followers of Westwood are always worth watching. Different shows garner different legions of fans and the tailoring and outfits on display at a Vivienne Westwood were more adventurous than anywhere else I’d seen. The street style photographers were obviously going crazy and with an orange feather in my trilby I’m still on the look out to see if I made anyones pages. 

We were slowly ushered upstairs into one of the most beautiful rooms. Ornate gilt work and secret doors, parquet and marble, everything was a sight to behold. I again cursed my camera as this was the only picture that really came out. 

As the room filled up with the likes of Anna Piaggi (sporting mismatched riding boots), there was a slight confusion with my ticket. Apparently the row I was due to sit in only had six seats, this was a slight problem as my ticket was number 7. I’d have gladly stood but the very lovely PRs sorted out the problem and I ended up amongst some Chinese journos and by ShowStudio so a massive thanks to handling that one well in the melee of seating people. 

The dropsheet informed us the collection was inspired by the magnificent Frozen Planet series and out came the models looking as though they’d just survived a post apocalyptic winter. Faces and beards frozen complete with iccicles! It was a look anyone without a winter coat could easily have emulated. Again I dropped the camera in favour of jotting down apparently random words at break neck speed. 

The tailoring was relatively loose, with contrast sleeves and more. Checks and tartans abounded in the collection as well as darker more earthy colours and heritage fabrics. The survivors of the harshest winter were clearly clinging on to what had always kept them warm. Tweeds, furs, fisherman style Aran knits, quilted jackets and shearling all featured. 

The checks and tartans ranged from tonal blackwatch, to bold black and white Glen checks, as well as strong thick window panes. Somehow these looked both traditional and fresh to the eye thanks to asymmetric details and fine cutting. 

Jumpers appeared torn and patchwork was almost as evident as the more refined pieces, conjuring further images of surviving in the wilds. Two of my favourite items were most certainly the tratan holdall, and the very sharply tailored Blackwatch double breasted over coat. If these somehow managed to find their way into my hands next winter I’ll be a very happy man. The collection segued into finer tailoring and culminated in a not apocalyptic at all group of dinner suits. A backless velvet waistcoat particularly grabbed me. Who knows where these polished gents were from? Perhaps they were celebrating their return from the frozen wastelands in their private club. 

The finale was a rather confused event, but it was so nice to see the designer herself walk the runway and evidently catch up with old friends. The Grande Dame needs not the accolades of the busy fash pack ready to sprint out the door and was happy to chat to people she’d obviously not seen in a long time. 

It was overall a great show, and any confusion before or after just added to the atmosphere. Anything too polished would maybe have felt a little wrong. 

photo credit:Style.com 

Menswear // Milan Spring Summer 2012 // Bainser’s Picks

Pitti has been done and dusted, and once I’ve trawled through the countless blogs and street shots I’ll distill some key trends from the fashionistos present. Camo cargo pants and a navy jacket made a reappearance this season as well as a lot of bold colour blocking. But hot on Pitti’s heels come the menswear shows in Milan. I loved some shows, was a bit meh at others and was thoroughly disappointed with one in particular.

So what can you expect from Milan? Well Versace and Cavalli will be bold eurotrash, Armani will be classic and stylish whilst the D Squared boys will show a barely disguised 30 minutes of homoerotic lust. Not bad for a few days work really.

Shorts

Being Spring Summer Shorts were in abundance. From D&G’s silk/denim hybrids to Bally’s tailored short shorts, (Top Center Right & Left respectively), there was plenty to choose from. Missoni (Far right) & D Squared (Center bottom left) both showed luxe sheen fabrics, with Vivienne Westwood (Far left) and Marni (Center bottom right) showing a more clean crisp white look.

Personally am loving the fact the length of mens shorts is remaining mid thigh. Sure it means a bit more time needs to be spent in the gym but there is nothing wrong with seeing plenty of leg in the summertime.

Knits

Lightweight summer knits are brilliant especially considering the slightly erratic nature of the British weather at the moment. I mean c’mon its nearly the end of June, and those whinging of a drought have long since drowned under the torrents. My faves? The Gucci v-neck (bottom row right), McQueen stripe (far right large image), Pringle’s new fractured argyle (top row left). Armani (top centre), Band of Outsiders (top right), and Iceberg (bottom left) are all great, with Moschino’s summer cardigan really surprising me. In general I’m neither a fan of theirs or short sleeves on anything bar Tshirts. But this really works!

Formalwear

Oh baby yeah, from the structured to the more relaxed, insane prints, and that great cropped double breasted jacket from Z Zegna (middle). I love it all. In fact I even loved a bit of Cavalli (top left), which I almost never do! The Moschino print (top left) is crazy brilliant. You’ll only be able to wear this look once or twice but you will be the centre of the party when you do. Westwood (bottom left) triumphed with some great British tailoring and several brilliantly cut suits. Iceberg’s unstructured jackets (centre right, bottom left) brought a needed lightness to tailoring, whilst Etro’s (centre right) black on black detailing was brilliantly subtle.

Outerwear

Having endured weather that would make Noah wince over the last few weeks the need for a lightweight summer jacket has never been more obvious. Thank you Costume National (centre) for this gorgeous lightweight and soft trench. Armani (top & bottom right) really brought newness to the biker jacket and had great surface detailing. Whilst John Varvatos took my breath away with his lengthening almost buttery soft jackets (Centre right, bottom left). They looked warm and breathable, perfect for a summers evening. Bally’s leather hoodie (centre right) is something I’ve been coveting for a long time, I just didn’t know it yet. And as for Neil Barrett’s two tone cropped trench, well I’ve already yabbered on about it in another post.

Of course a round up of the Milan shows wouldnt be complete without a gratuitous Gandy shot. A legend now immortalised in a Dolce & Gabanna book the man is fantastic!

All Photos: Style.com