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Ask Bainser // To Wales // Weddingwear

Dear Nick Bainser, 

Dean Veall here. Curly haired zoologist currently at home in the Valleys of South Wales after eight years in London. In November I am heading to only my second wedding ever and its a civil partnership. Am a broad chunky man (uhm, euphemism), 5 11 in height and my frame does not usually sit well in a suit. End up looking very boxy. 
The general feel of the other male guests will be “sharp minimalism”, a look I can not really compete with. So have decided to go against the grain slightly to stand out and play to my strengths. This is where I wanted your opinion. Was going for this wool jacket, a windowpane check : http://tinyurl.com/5vnc5r8 Am thinking of coupling with a red cord trouser and navy cardigan, a white shirt, acid mustard tie and pocket square. 
Would really love your thoughts/comments. The groom is approving of the look. But, I guess I am asking you is will this look work and can you recommend any shoe that would go? (Budget, £120 max).
Many thanks in advanceDean Veall
Hi Dean,
Sorry its taken so long to get back to you. I hope I haven’t missed the wedding!
Think that looks is good. Just make sure the fit of the jacket is great. If it isn’t go and get it tailored, it’ll be well worth the extra pennies.
But why stop at just the jacket? I would strongly advise forking out for the full suit. Go for a bold check from someone like Paul Costelloe and you’ll be on to a definite winner. Jacket and cords is a little too casual for my liking for a wedding. It is some one’s incredibly special day, and more importantly a great excuse to get properly dressed up.

If you’d rather avoid M&S Cardiff has a very good independent menswear store Hawkes Essentials. The owner is really passionate about menswear and a great guy to chat to.
As for a shoe, check out Aldo or Office for a decent brogue. It cant fail you. Am sure there is an Aldo in the St Davids Centre in Cardiff. If a Brogue is not to your liking check out my previous post on the subject here.
Hope this helps and am sure you’ll look great at the wedding.

Bainser

UPDATED:

I’ve been reliably informed there is no Aldo in Cardiff at all. This is frankly a crying shame. But my advice still stands. You should be able to locate something, if not ask the guys in Hawkes for tips. They will def be able to point you in the right direction. (Note to self: Brush up on regional fashion knowledge)

Ask Bainser // Non Washable items // Storage

Hey Nick!

Great blog! I just have a question regarding storage of clothes. Do you store used items of clothing such as leather jackets and down vests (and other non-washable items) back into the closet right after use without ‘cleaning’ it or is that bad practice and unhygienic? And how does storage for shoes go? Do you wipe their soles clean before you put them back on the shelf? Any other tips?

Hello,

Ok I am probably the worst person to ask this question. According to my husband I am the messiest person in the world. I have the incredibly annoying habit of disrobing as I wander through the house meaning my shoes are in one place, socks in another and so on. But that really doesn’t help you.

After you take off any ‘non-washable’ items they should be allowed to breath and relax. Give themn a chance to dry out and your perspiration to evapourate from them. It sounds minging but its a good idea. As for down vests, check the washing instructions. They may well be washable, and a handy tip when tumble drying them check in a tennis ball or two into the machine. This will bash the feathers and plump them up again.

Shoes should be allowed to dry out and have wooden shoe trees if at all possible. This will help the leather retain its flexibility. They should be polished once a week or every two weeks if leather depending on their wear. If you manage this let me know. Mine are the victims of what can only be described as shoe-icide and its a wonder they last as long as they do. Though seriously if you do nothing else, clean any encasing muck from them quickly and allow them to dry naturally stuffed with newspaper.

As I say this is a serious case as do as I say not as I do, and if you do may the gods of attire reward you with wonderous sale finds.

N

Ask Bainser // Wardrobe Essentials // Menswear

Dear Bainser

what items of clothing and accessories would you consider to be must-haves in a gentleman’s wardrobe?

Hi

Whilst I believe a good capsule collection of clothes is essential, you can never have too many clothes. Sure you can run out of space to store them and make edits donating the still wearable products to your local charity shop. But you can never have too many.

As a minimum I would say a gentleman needs

At least one suit (charcoal or deep navy, so it can be dressed up or down depending on what event you are attending), Formal Trousers, Jeans (black & indigo, slim not skinny), shirts (formal & casual), tshirts (avoid anything by Ed Hardy), plain colour jumpers, Winter coat, Lightweight coat or jacket, formal shoes, casual shoes (not including trainers these should be reserved for the gym only if possible)

There is clearly much more, I could list everything I view as essential. But to be honest that would be ridiculous, I think having a dinner jacket is essential but not everyone would feel the same. Also I have yet to complete my own list of essentials.

Suffice to say you must be able to transition from work to social life and almost any other occasion in between without too much stress. If all else fails and your wardrobe has totally let you down in the immortal words of a good friend you will just have to ‘Style it out’

Hope this helps

Nick

Ask Bainser // Winter Coat // High St

Dear Bainser, 
I’m having winter coat woes and need some help. I have a fantastic Spiewak Parka that is perfect for freezing cold weather, but it’s not the smartest of things and I think it’s about time I bought a second winter coat for those more dressy occasions yet it still needs to look great with jeans.
I notice the Pea Coat comes and goes every winter and I keep toying with the idea, but is there something better out there?Now, I’ve not got hundreds to spend on the coat so it’s High Street all the way! 
Thank you.  Andrew.
Hi Andrew,
Typical isn’t it, just when we should be packing away our summer clothes out comes the sunshine to muck us around. I’m not complaining mind, I suspect I may be part lizard what with my love of the sunshine. But now is indeed the time to invest in a winter coat.
The Pea coat is a perennial favourite in menswear, and like a good trench it’s pretty much a staple in any mans wardrobe. The question is there anything better out there. It’s very mucha case for different coats for different folks. I for example have yet to see a Duffel that doesn’t remind me of Paddington bear and no amount of marmalade is going to make him stylish (in saying that he did rock a statement red fedora!).
Each winter the Military coat also comes back, sometimes its French, sometimes its Russian, whatever, it’s still a military coat. Last season I went particularly Russian and loved it.
So what am I saying? Is there anything better out there? Yes there is, but only because there always will be. It’s why we both love fashion. The new, the exciting, the fresh. Grab yourself a decent Pea Coat for this season and you’ll be sorted. If you can afford to last only a season or two go more edgy and directional otherwise stay classic. The best one’s out there are still cropped double breasted 6 button ones.Check out All Saints Juror Pea Coat or French Connection’s Restrain Military Coat.
Hope that helps!Nick

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Ask Bainser // Knitwear // More Portly Gent

Hi Bainser,

Could you give me some advice regarding jumpers/cardigans? I have a large build (and am a bit on the heavy side) and I always think I look large in a jumper/cardigan as it covers my whole belly. I usually wear the t-shirt/open shirt look but think it can look messy/unformal in certain situations.
Any advice on styles/colours/jumpers for me? The last time I wore a stripey jumper (which I love) my mum said I looked like a barrel (Thanks mam!)
Hi,Aren’t mums the best! In fact families are probably our best hope at keeping us grounded. On a recent trip home I knew I was looking the best I had been in a very long time. Why? Was it the large number of compliments on my weight loss or my marathon improved physique? No, it was the lack of mickey taking or suggestions of improved portion control. But this anecdote does little to resolve your situation.
As regards jumper and cardigans go for a finer gauge knit, like this John Smedley at Mr PorterJohn Smedley // Mr Porter // Bainser Menswear
and avoid big bulky aran style geansaí! Chunky knits will add only add bulk. A v neck rather than a round neck will draw your eye down, and a turtle neck is best avoided altogether (this is nothing to do with size by the way I’m just not really a fan)
With cardigans again get a deeper V, this time unbutton the top and last button. Otherwise they look a bit too formal and stayed.
Colours and patterns? If you wear a brighter shirt or tshirt under a darker cardigan it should create a more slimming effect. Vertical stripes are better than horizontal. But don’t be afraid to try both. Also don’t be afraid to get some really bold coloured jumpers.
The trend for Icelandic and Fair Isle patterns is still going to be strong this winter, the detail around your shoulders will also help draw the eye up to your shoulders, like this at Urban Outfitters.
Urban Outfitters // Knitwear // Menswear Bainser

I hope this helps,
Bainser

Ask Bainser // Tall & Slim // Formalwear

Dear Bainser,

Are there any off-the-peg clothes brands that cater well for tall, skinny guys? I find lots of things are either too short for me (but are tight enough) or swamp me (but are long enough). OR, failing that, what can I wear to make an ill fit less obvious? Like cardigans or waistcoats or something… Told you this was badly phrased. I LOOK BAD IN CLOTHES basically.

Hi,

That’s the major problem with off the peg in that it’s designed for the ‘average’ man on the street. Who this bloke is I have no idea! But that doesn’t really help you. Also the current fashion for cropped and shrunken jackets and trousers can end up looking like you haven’t bought a suit since your last growth spurt. Where you need to head to really depends on your budget. For example Dunhill I’ve noticed have quite a long block but will set you back £1,095 upwards for a blazer. Though think they may be marginally cheaper in store.

Dunhill BlazerI would be hesitant to recommend places like Big & Tall, as their range is erm limited and the focus is on the & between the shops title words. On the High St many places store have different blocks (shapes) depending on the ranges. For example an M&S Autograph suit is very different to a Sartorial suit. Take some time, chat to the shop assistants. I know this is a bit fo a cop out but honestly they should know what they’re talking about. If they don’t thank them kindly and move on. Cerruti in Moss Bros I have been told is getting slimmer.

But even better than that check out some tailors or made to measure services. Depending on where you live the costs can vary greatly and provide incredible value. You will need to spend a minimum of £400 and that’s with Moss Bespoke or local tailors, but I promise a Made to Measure suit will be worth it.

If that’s not really an option either your next alternative is to find a suit that nearly fits and then head to a tailor and get it altered. There are limits to what can be done in either direction when altering a suit. If possible buy unfinished trousers places like French Connection on the High St offer this, these are then finished at exactly the right length by the store.  jackets are a greater problem as sleeves are notoriously difficult to alter. Sleeves start and finish at complicated points. You can’t take too much off a cuff as the buttons are there, similarly you cant really let them down due to the way the cloth is cut and finished. At the top of the sleeve the actual shape of the sleeve and how it is cut also makes it difficult to alter.

So what do you do?

Make sure the jacket fits you across the shoulders as perfectly as is possible. Try on every single jacket in the shop if you have to. The whole suit hangs from the shoulders so getting that right is essential. Then it’s a case of going to a tailor and discussing with him exactly what you need. Yes it is a faff, but worth it.

It may sound harsh but in this case I’m not going to recommend ways to hide a badly fitted suit. With a little bit of leg work you should be fine. Yes, you’ll miss out on the instant gratification buying something new and shiny, but if there’s something I’ve learnt of lately a bit of delayed pleasure can be worth so much more.

I hope this helped!

Bainser

Ask Bainser // Sartorial & Style Advice // Winter

Dear Bainser,

With summer disappearing and the chill of autumn fast appearing I need
some advice. Everyday I look at my clothes and think that I need to
update my wardrobe for this new season.  I want to smarten up my look,
but I’m not sure where to start. What colours and styles should I be
wearing? What basics should I have at hand? Please help.

Steve
Age 26

Hi Steve,

Am guessing age 26 your budget isn’t limitless so seek out these on the High St. A bit of rummaging over a day or two will yield vast rewards. Regardless of your job there will be times you need to smarten up so I would recommend having at least two suits. This winter go for a really deep blue and a charcaol suit if you dont have them already. For less than £200 you can get really good suits from places like Moss Bros. Personally I recommend their FCUK range.

Other than that you will need a couple of jumpers, dont be afraid to use these to add colour to wardrobe. Try Zara & Uniqlo for decent value for money. A friend once recommended you buy Zara jumpers in a size too big, then wash on a cool wash. They’ll shrink to the size you need and will be machine washable (cool wash) for the rest of the year. I’ve not tried this yet so don’t blame me if it goes a bit wrong & you end up with something suited to one of the principle characters in Snow White.

A coat is also essential. Winters seem to be getting colder and colder each year, with summer’s not really getting warmer. If you can pay at least £100 for your coat. When it’s chucking it down, or particularly freezing you will thank me it. This is where investment is key. A good coat can last several seasons and that will make its larger price tag worth it. Check back here for the Winter coats I’ll be recommending soon, and of course there’s the Zara one’s I’ve already mentioned.

Footwear takes a particular bashing during the winter especially when the gritters come out. Salt can ruin shoes, so take good care of them. Aldo are I believe a very good footwear store. Not prohibitively expensive and more importantly good quality. Get yourself a pair of workwear boots, classic and will still be here for at least this winter. Avoid Uggs at all costs a) they arent for men & b) you know Australians laugh at the way we wear them much in the same way they sneer at us for drinking Fosters.

Winter is also the time for another party season. Whilst your coat is essential remember often you’ll be going from home, to cab or train, straight into a hot pub or club, then stumbling into a cab. If you can channel your inner Northern lass maybe leave the coat at home. A vintage Dinner Jacket over very deep indigo jeans, or even black jeans can add an interesting twist to what others are doing.

I hope this helps

Bainser