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Menswear // Fashion // Accessories // Style // A little of everything I love
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McQ AUTUMN/WINTER 2012 RUNWAY VIDEO
The McQ Autumn/Winter 2012 show was produced in collaboration with Punchdrunk.
E. Tautz Fall/Winter 2012
Anything.
Shane cutting out a stencil … (Taken with instagram)
Sunday during Menswear Week in Milan was freezing! Properly cold, so I was thankful of my Dr Martens and thick socks. A suitable footwear choice for Vivienne I thought. The setting was a very beautiful Palazzo Serbelloni on Corso Venezia. I arrived a little early so headed for some pasta based nourishment. It was oh so good. More amusingly it gave me the chance to witness those random moments when the Fashion and Real Worlds collide. The looks cast by both parties was a sight to behold.
Outside the Palazzo the crowd gathered teeth chattering, avid followers of Westwood are always worth watching. Different shows garner different legions of fans and the tailoring and outfits on display at a Vivienne Westwood were more adventurous than anywhere else I’d seen. The street style photographers were obviously going crazy and with an orange feather in my trilby I’m still on the look out to see if I made anyones pages.
We were slowly ushered upstairs into one of the most beautiful rooms. Ornate gilt work and secret doors, parquet and marble, everything was a sight to behold. I again cursed my camera as this was the only picture that really came out.
As the room filled up with the likes of Anna Piaggi (sporting mismatched riding boots), there was a slight confusion with my ticket. Apparently the row I was due to sit in only had six seats, this was a slight problem as my ticket was number 7. I’d have gladly stood but the very lovely PRs sorted out the problem and I ended up amongst some Chinese journos and by ShowStudio so a massive thanks to handling that one well in the melee of seating people.
The dropsheet informed us the collection was inspired by the magnificent Frozen Planet series and out came the models looking as though they’d just survived a post apocalyptic winter. Faces and beards frozen complete with iccicles! It was a look anyone without a winter coat could easily have emulated. Again I dropped the camera in favour of jotting down apparently random words at break neck speed.


The tailoring was relatively loose, with contrast sleeves and more. Checks and tartans abounded in the collection as well as darker more earthy colours and heritage fabrics. The survivors of the harshest winter were clearly clinging on to what had always kept them warm. Tweeds, furs, fisherman style Aran knits, quilted jackets and shearling all featured.
The checks and tartans ranged from tonal blackwatch, to bold black and white Glen checks, as well as strong thick window panes. Somehow these looked both traditional and fresh to the eye thanks to asymmetric details and fine cutting.


Jumpers appeared torn and patchwork was almost as evident as the more refined pieces, conjuring further images of surviving in the wilds. Two of my favourite items were most certainly the tratan holdall, and the very sharply tailored Blackwatch double breasted over coat. If these somehow managed to find their way into my hands next winter I’ll be a very happy man. The collection segued into finer tailoring and culminated in a not apocalyptic at all group of dinner suits. A backless velvet waistcoat particularly grabbed me. Who knows where these polished gents were from? Perhaps they were celebrating their return from the frozen wastelands in their private club.




The finale was a rather confused event, but it was so nice to see the designer herself walk the runway and evidently catch up with old friends. The Grande Dame needs not the accolades of the busy fash pack ready to sprint out the door and was happy to chat to people she’d obviously not seen in a long time.
It was overall a great show, and any confusion before or after just added to the atmosphere. Anything too polished would maybe have felt a little wrong.
photo credit:Style.com
If you’ve even the most passing interest in menswear, and you checked out the photos of Pitti then the explosion of camo as a trend can not have escaped your attention. Now I don’t know what it is about the current economic woes or more that seems to be making editors and tastemakers flock to this, but I’m loving it. Is it a desire to hide away? Or perhaps an attempt to butch it up and tough it all out like a brave little soldier? Who knows?

Jimmy Choo for Autumn Winter is certainly embracing it, with Bond-esque pinup silhouettes in varying shades of olive, and chocolate making a print that is likely to get you noticed. It covers shoes, bags, wallets and scarves. I love it!

But what of the rest of the collection? Well every range has grown or been tweaked. With core ranges evolving and shapes being nudged a bit more rounded here, a tassel removed there, it’s without a doubt still an exciting range before you even get into any kind of naked lady camouflage. With printed ponyskin, mixes of flannels and fabrics, and more I really loved the collection.

Now I wont lie to you and say I’d buy it all, frankly there is no way I would have the nerve to attempt the Jimi Hendrix inspired python looks. This isn’t that I don’t love them, far from it, I’m just not brave enough. You however should be. No really you should, the boots are fantastic!

I am a complete lover of quality craftsmanship and having felt the suede on the below shoe I’m in love! I also adore how is coloured on the inside and therefore the seams. Brilliant way of adding a flash of bright to a winter look.

There is of course more, so much more to the range, trainers, biker boots (also having major wants for these!) bags (the lust level goes without saying on these). The fact the lovely ladies at Jimmy Choo furnished me with coffee on a freezing Milano day did nothing to dissuade me of course, but I really can not wait for these to drop in store. And as for the scarf well it’s been a long time a naked lady was drapped around my neck if I’m honest but for Jimmy I’ll make an exception.

I want these braces!
Source: Ten Magazine Tumblr
Photographer: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Having loved the show in the afternoon, I headed out into Milano for a bit of a wander. If I can say so myself due to the taxi strike I was becoming a bit of afficionado when it comes to the Milanese transport system (by the way a sign for an ATM is not what you think, it is in fact a ticket office). So with that in mind and knowing I had a few hours to kill before the party I checked out the very gorgeous cathedral.
Subtle isn’t she? Obviously I love it. But what I love even more are the covered shopping galleries just out of shot to the left. The architecture of Milan is beautiful. From Centrale station (STUNNING & HUGE!!) to the more modern buildings near Garibaldi station and much more in between.
It’s all quiet expensive here, the teeny hot chocolate I had on the Sunday cost €7 but was totally worth it. A bit more wandering and a delicious plate of pasta later and I headed back to the hotel (this time by tram) to get ready for the party.
Decked out in a vintage dress jacket, dress shirt and my trusty Nudie jeans I helped myself to the as per norm overpriced mini bar for you know some dutch courage. The lovely lady beside is Marta from Maire Claire in Milan (apparently after several glasses of vino I can network!). Ready to go I braved the cold and somehow managed to grab a cab, arriving at the party moments after Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana themselves, and Anna Dello Russo. Slowly making my way upstairs I enjoyed took in the beautiful surroundings of the store, check out the chandelier above.
The party was to celebrate not just the afternoons show (again bravo!) but the beautiful work of Mariano Vivanco who shot the summer campaign. La Bella Estate of course means the beautiful summer and check out the images. If that isnt a beautiful summer I dont know what is.



I just love this whole campaign, it’s the essence of Italian family, and used the wonderful cast of Terra Firma a wonderful film. Having the shots blown up and all around the party was a great touch. Seeing everyone interract with them and discuss them was great. My favourite shot is beyond a doubt this one:

As the evening began to get going I chatted with Jeremy Langmead and the rest of the always delightful Mr Porter crew, before heading downstairs to watch the Swide produced making of film that accompanies the campaign.
Even the best things come to an end, and we a few of us were lucky enough to jump into a taxi to Gold. Here more cocktails were consumed, nibbles nibbled & Celebs spotted (Mr Gandy, Tinie Tempah), before we, (being the stylish and witty Leroy, Camille & Lisa fellow Londoners), once again jumped in a cab. I had such a great time with these three that we will no doubt be raising the roof in London sometime soon.
This time we were off to Plastic. Basically the most random and phenomenal club I have been to in a long time. My love may be slightly enhanced by the fact we were with Dolce & Gabbana and as such ushered straight through the fifty strong crowd baying to get in. It really does help when Mr Gabbana is with you.
A couple more drinks were had, there was some dancing to interesting Italian tunes I had never heard before. It was beyond busy, so much so that Stefano even decided to give a quick hand serving behind the bar.

But all good things come to an end and about 4am it was time to call it a night. The taxi strike now over we all made our way to our beds to get ready for another day on the run around Milan. A truly great night so thank you very much Dolce & Gabbana! Not to mention an invitation to return in June. I’ll be there without a shadow of a doubt. Oh and London Fashion Week, the gauntlet has been laid down…can you top this?
High-res
Loving the new #McQ collection #AW12 #menswear #fashion (Taken with instagram)