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Showing 19 posts tagged london
Pose // Menswear // Independent Success
Well written and genuine emails from people asking me to cover their brand are always gratefully received. Especially when its clear the person has actually read this site and are interested in what I do. Pose London was one such brand, a great independent label, with two stores in London already, one in Camden and one in Islington.
Ok so I’ve not yet been to their stores, but I fully intend to make a visit soon. They describe themselves as not being high fashion, but the suits and tailoring they are making is definitely directional. Clever use of seams, and small intricate details are really special in menswear. It’s all about the quirks that set your suit or shirt apart from the guy next door. By the looks of it these are also difficult to get right details from a pattern cutting perspective. Believe me when I say I know this, a curved seam is a sight to behold but in terms of pattern cutting can be a right pain in the arse. Especially if you are looking to create volume with it. Do it wrong and suddenly your beautiful crafted jacket makes David Gandy look like the fabled resident of Notre Dame. Even worse you may not discover this until the final garment is made.
You can see what I’m on about in the above shot of Matt Di Angelo, Lucien Laviscount and Ashley Walters, all of whom looking great in Pose. Though Matt could’ve worn a shirt, and pulled up his trousers a little. Then again it’s mid party so I guess I’ll forgive him that.
With shirts from £79, and jackets in the £345 price bracket they aren’t cheap, but then they aren’t too expensive either. The thing is what you are paying for is the skills of pattern cutting and the fact the collections are not mass produced on any great scale. Meaning the likelihood of you bumping into anyone in the same suit is minuscule. Which is luxury in itself these days. For those of you that can’t get to London they thankfully have an transactional website. I’m already eying up a hooded tweed jacket, which is something I’ve been hunting for a while. Though I’ll probably just head into the store to double check the fit.
Thing is they aren’t just about great suits and tailoring, the shirts they have on offer have a great fitted look. Bold design in geek meets English gent kind of way. And the shoes! Ok so these are more expensive than I normally pay, so may have to do land a big freelance job and treat myself to some after the cheque clears. Genuinely flicking through the online shop the shoes really stood out, I desperately want the above boot, their massive military boots and a pair of the hi-tops. (Actually that better be one or two freelance jobs!)
Anyway that’s frankly enough from me on the subject. But then I’ve always been about championing the independent retailers and designers, and these guys certainly hit the nail on the head.
High-res
Love this from Sibling! Sequinned scissor jumper! (Taken with instagram)
Sponsored Post // Doubletree Tower of London // Hilton
This is a sponsored post for The Hilton group who are expanding their horizons and have recently welcomed 8 former Mint Hotels into the Hilton family. These include two hotels in London that were formerly part of the DoubleTree group, one in Westminster and the other right beside the Tower of London. Both of which places are actually pretty quiet at the weekends but really close to some great areas of London, be it Pimlico or the East End. The Tower of London Hotel, ignoring the beautiful tourist laden monolith opposite for now, it’s just on the cusp of the City. Which as we know is essentially dead at weekends. So the hotel is perfect calm amongst the storm of London, yet has this view from it’s restaurant.
Another thing is it really isn’t that far from Shoreditch, and without a doubt some of the coolest shops in the whole of London. Visitors to London ignore (well not totally) the tube map for a second, I may sound mad but I know what I’m talking about. You can either attack this, (oh and make no bones about it a serious shopping trip of a weekend to Shoreditch is essentially a military campaign) one of two ways.
1) You can leave your room, head straight to the DLR, go one stop to Shadwell than straight to Shoreditch High St. There Boxpark, Hostem, A Child of Jago, Start Boutique and more of Londons best kept secret boutiques await. Once you’ve hit them head down Brick Lane for a salt beef bagel (available night or day!), followed by some great vintage shops including Rokit. Ending your trip with one of the best curries in the UK, before heading back the hotel.
or
2) Do that in reverse! It depends on how happy you are to carry your shopping all day?
While you’re around Brick Lane, you may also want to check out Spitalfields Market, which has some great vintage stores and men’s tailoring as well as quirky boutiques. All of this within not more than a 15-20 min stroll through the City.
Oh and having being sent the pics of both hotels refurb I want to eat here one night. It’s the Sky Lounge of the Westminster hotel right by Tate Britain. The view is gorge!
This is a Sponsored Post
Mr Start // Shirt Collection // Spring Summer 2012
On Friday Mr Start gave a soft launch of their new standalone shirt collection. I was early and got to speak to Philip Start before others arrived. It’s without a doubt always a pleasure to hear someone so enthusiastic about product, what they do, and what they create. Chatting to him about the thoughts behind the collection and how the brand was growing was great to hear, optimism is a rare commodity in retail right now. This shirt collection is an extension of their existing shirt range, it is howeverm designed to be worn more freely than just under a suit. Is Mr Start becoming more relaxed, more casual?
Well yes and no. The collection stands by itself and as mentioned isn’t designed specifically with the suit in mind, so yes it is slightly more relaxed. But the hallmarks of refined quality and taste still speak out. Each shirt is made of 2 ply cotton, though dropped into the classic lines we now find very fine prints where plain white’s and blue’s were before. The print is so fine from a far it has the appearance of a textured cloth, which excited me a little more than it should. But good design does that to me. We are also treated to a very pleasing range of collar shapes. Personally the club or rounded collar has been one of my favourites this season. It’s different and hardly anyone else wears it. But having seen the selection on show from Mr Start I may be swung around to new mini collar. It’s neat, sharp and perfect for what will I hope be a delightful summer next year.
As for the fit, well this is still Mr Start so it’s neat, but not to the point the of being restrictive. It will work dressed up with a suit, or great pair of trousers. To Philip’s dismay I will most likely team it with a super dark pair of jeans. It is after all my uniform. Cloth, fit, collar shapes and sizes, the collection works well on all parts that count. But like all great menswear its also the small details that count, be it mother of pearl, or fine square grey Corozo buttons, every last piece has been thought through.
The collection is due to drop in store late Spring, and frankly for me that’s the only downside to this. Fashion can be a cruel mistress, those of us in the industry often get to see product long before it actually hits stores. Samples are brilliant, but even then you have to wait and hope to get invited to the sample sale to get your hands on them, show’s can be mind blowing especially when you’re viewing Spring Summer in mid February freezing. I’m really not that patient, but I guess being made wait for something you really want has some advantages. I’m just not entirely certain I know what they are.
Hostem // Shop Visit // Shoreditch
I’d love to proclaim Hostem as some form of diamond in the rough. After all it is slap in the middle of Shoreditch. Shoreditch being what it is is chock full of new and exciting stores. It is the homeland of the boutique shop, a fact that has become a touch of poisoned chalice. But the trouble with hipsters, is not surprisingly their belief that being a dickhead is cool, but more for me that well they are cool. They do have good taste and a great eye for detail and the new. I may even be on the edge of the hipster world, what with my skinny jeans, shrunken jackets and a desperate need to hear new bands (as well as firmly established pop divas I may add).
So with stiff competition from firm favourites A Child of the Jago and Start within minutes walk, does the relative newcomer Hostem hold its own? Focusing on unusual artisan and directional designers, as well as unique collaborations you can be sure to find something no one else will have. The shop is currently expanding from what is three retail areas, the Essential, the ‘Dark Room’ and the Third Room. In just a few weeks renovations will be complete for the ‘Chalk Room’, though the ‘Third Room’ is going to take a little longer.
If you get there quickly you should be able to see the Alice Waese x Hostem collaboration jackets and shoes. The shoes were yet to arrive but if the jacket below is anything to go by they will be amazing. Though the jackets are already flying out so you need to act fast.
Championing and hunting out the Artisan as well as the more directional designers is the core value of this shop. So you’ll see brands available barely anywhere else in London and the UK. They guys behind the store have taken the time to work with designers building great relationships. This is by far the strengths of the boutique. Sure not everyone can afford the Parabellum bag at £1,800 but there is something in the store for nearly everyone. The bag in question had me practically frothing at the mouth.
In February when the Third Room reopens the brand Arts & Science will take over and essentially have free reign to display their work. De Rien, originally from Spitalfields vintage market also have an exclusive collection. So exclusive in fact the jackets are numbered 2 of 5 was the last one left, but I was assured new designs were on their way. De Rien may have originated in vintage but are embracing the new QR codes take you to the brands website and tell you the story of your garment. It’s this mix of modern and artisan that makes Hostem unique in my eyes.
The list of brands available was fantastic from one’s you may never have heard of to ones more well known but equally forward such as Demeulemeester, and Rik Owens. Adam Kimmel and Casely-Hayford also featured, but perhaps the biggest surprise to me was Visvim. Back in August when I interviewed Nick Wooster, he mentioned this brand. New to me I did a bit of hunting around, but ‘til now I’d not actually seen the clothes themselves. I can only report back positives. I mean who am I to argue with Nick? Well the gentleman he is, he’d quite happily listen to new ideas and allow me to disagree. Though I have no desire to, whilst I’m not yet daring/ comfortable in my own skin to rock a camo tailored jacket, I know good design when I see it.
There’s more to this store than meets the eye with trinkets, snuff and an upcoming magazing published by Hostem themselves. If you need an example as to why I think this store will go from strength to strength its this magazine. It’s about soo much more than just clothes available in store, but also art, music, design and everything else that makes up the Hostem lifestyle. Given a different mans name with each publication you can see how it’s developing and evolving. Much like the store. Check out the magazine online at www.sebastianmagazine.com
As you’ve guessed by now I’m a fan and can’t wait for the opening of the Chalk Room. But I strongly urge you not to just take my word for it. Leave the safety of your regular shopping haunts. Grab a coffee and hit Redchurch St. Spoil yourself with people that genuinely care about the product, the designers and the even more weirdly in this day and age….you, the customer. As ever if you can’t make it to London you should definitely check out the stores online presence.
Unconditional // London Fashion Week // Menswear
I think my friend Ollie is beginning to think of me as some sort of fashion talisman for shows. Last season I cajoled her into joining me at Charlie Le Mindu, which left us both reeling and a little delirious in very very good way. So far this season I’ve dragged her along to Unconditional and Jayne Pierson, both of which were inspiring. Having left her quaffing champers with Notion magazine at the esthetica brunch to check out another show we caught up on the front row of the show. Glancing around we saw a very edgy and beautiful crowd. The venue was just ramshackle and industrial enough to compliment the crowd and as Jodie Harsh’s music began pumping the event could easily have shrugged off it’s fashion show mantle and descended into a full on club night. Jodie herself was seated in the front row just opposite alongside Pete Burns and partner.
Unconditional are growing rapidly and with collections like this you can see why. The womenswear was slick in both tailoring and draping, starting in black moving through brilliant yellows and pinks and into a deep burgundy.
When androgyny is done well it draws strengths from both genders and this collection certainly did that. A burgundy tailored jacket with black chiffon tails certainly highlighted Unconditional’s great eye for detail and balance.
As for the menswear…I’ll admit I was late to the party on this. Maybe I’m just not cool enough or something. But I feel in love back in June or so with their directional tailoring and cutting techniques. Menswear has a predefined set of rules that you must obey and to my delight Unconditional bend these as far as they will go. The brilliant colour and checks in the menswear had me clamouring for next summer already and I haven’t even psyched myself up for winter.
In addition to the collection I was delighted to spot Unconditional’s collaboration with the very lovely Úna Burke (I can say this as I met her later that evening and we joked about how hot a models ass looked in a pair of her leather hotpants!). Úna first showed an installation at the Hospital Club last season and has fast become an editorial favourite of the likes of Dazed and Confused. Her leather strapwork harness and gauntlets were stunning. Their apparent intricate nature is based on a simple yet beautiful framework. I have no idea where I would wear either but that doesn’t mean I don’t desperately want them!
I could harp on about this collection for hours, but I’d soon run out of synonyms for amazing and I’d rather not sound like some sort of sycophant. So let’s leave it that I am a massive fan and quite frankly you should be to.
Updated:: Paul Costelloe // London // Spring Summer 2012
As ever Paul Costelloe kicked off London Fashion Week this morning. Which meant a ridiculously early start for my goodself. Honestly 5 am is a time to be stumbling home not to be desperately trying to put outfit choices together. It is fashion week after all.
Having worked all week with the very lovely Rebekah Roy casting, styling and fitting the show I was looking forward to seeing it all through. Final checks were made, a dress rehersal had (thank God! as the chanegs turned out to be even faster than we had anticipated) and then at 9 (well 9.30) the show began. It was of course the traditional flurry of clothes both off and on, tweaks in the line up and hush shouting for the models. The buzz of working back stage never ends. I genuinely love it and miss it between shows. Four or five months work comes down to thirty or forty minutes of ice cold coolness out the front and controlled panic backstage.
The menswear was a great collection of wide legged Oxford Bags, slim trousers, with great coats and jackets. Several large romantic shirts billowed down the catwalk. In a bit of a Miami Vice moment there was a great white suit with an aqua dress shirt. The flurry of colour at the end was a great end to the silver greys of the start, each section clearly appealing to a slightly different Costelloe man.
The womens collection was the usual collection of pelumed angels this season in silvers, creams and whites. I loved it, and it looked fab from the crazed frenzy of backstage.
Apologies for the poor quality of the images but iPhones really arent designed for this and my camera was buried under a several other people’s bags.
To watch more, visit designer_profile.aspx?DesignerID=242
Swear London // The10Space // Truman Brewery Party
This weeks been great, super productive in work getting ready to kick start Autumn Winter 2012. So to be honest the lack lustre weather has been helping get my brain in the right creative mood. But the highlight so far was most definitely the launch of Swear Londons 10th anniversary pop up space (shop just doesn’t feel right for this creative little place) at the Truman Brewery just off Brick Lane. Swear through collaborations and their own ingenuity have had an amazing track record over the last 10 years which is lovingly showcased here.
As well as the brands history and innovation the Spring Summer collection is of course available along with t-shirts magazines and more. I particualry loved the illustrations by Amie Howarth.
The party itself was undeinably a success, and despite arriving a smidge late (thanks to a distracting beverage with the lovely Mssrs Hugh Wright and Anders White), I arrived just in time to grab what may well have been the very last Kopperberg. It’s always a good sign when the bar runs dry, it’s clearly a succesful party. Though the bar should obviously be replenished as soon as possible. The trendy and lovely people were clearly to enamoured with the shoes and great beats from DJs Horatio and more, to care as the place was still jumping when I left.
But enough about that, check out the shoes. If I had more opportunity to distract the crowd I would’ve been tempted to liberate quite a few. Especially the blue suede and leather high tops! Gorgeous. Not to mention the white brogue/trainer lovelies.
Client // Jacket // Embroidery
After the great giveaway, and indeed a little before I’m loving Client.
I want this coat, or indeed anything with this embroidery. Brilliant! Keep an eye on this brand they will undoubtedly go from strength to strength.
This is the French army Jacket - ‘Remade in Britain”. I discovered this jacket whilst on tour and my friend Ingrid suggested that I could add embroidery on the back to make it “Client” and I asked a Berlin illustrator to come up with a design that was both rock and roll and Client…I love the way the microphone lead wraps around the wrists - so much so that I have now used this for most of the Client designs- on T-shirts,bags and embroidered in bright neons inside the Great Grey and Nato Strict coats..
Menswear Day at London Fashion Week
Over the next few weeks and months I’ll be covering the events and madness of this seasons fashion month. But if you just can’t wait til then have a quick look at my brief synopsis on SoSoGay.org.
Click through the amazing Sibling Panda’s Rock cardigan above to be taken straight there.
Paul Costelloe Autumn Winter 2011
It’s late February and Somerset House is flooded with the journalists, buyers and fashion students desperately blagging any ticket going. It can only be another fashion week, and once again Paul Costelloe opened the event. To the tune of The Rose his daughter, an opera singer by day (well night I suppose) began the show in a deep red and purple tweed coat. Looking every ounce the professional model she later said the only bizarre part was walking out onto the runway then leaving again having not sang a note.
What followed was a light and youthful collection drawing inspiration from Paul’s Irish heritage as well as the sixties and designers such as Courreges. The checks worked best at their boldest and the bright mustards and pinks mean that we should be able carry the warmth of the summer through the darkest months. The fabrics including world famous Harris tweeds looked warm and comforting, without being old. Favourites of the collection included the minidress with a pleated bateau neck, and a green check bomber jacket with hood. 
The whole collection lifted everyones mood on a slightly chilly February morning. Styled together with coloured opaque tights and vertiginous heeled loafers, the girls were fresh and new. In contrast to the deeply coloured checks were a range of metallics from an almost burnished silver to a deep emerald green, as well as silk print saturated in colour that was also given a metallic finish in some looks. The womenswear will easily carry you from the late warmth of autumn in pair of colouttes through the worst of storms winter can through at you in the above mentioned checks.
Paul hasn’t left us boys out in the cold though. A much improved collection that was in harmony with the woman’s came down the catwalk today. Opening with an astrakhan (faux - obviously) knee length over coat, and working through sumptuous velvet jacket and trousers in red, black and orange, as brilliantly cut slim fitting tweed suit, and a several bold coats. Favourites again were the checks brought across from womenswear and the two velvet jackets. One in a liquid red, the other black over printed with a rococo design. With a menswear pop-up shop launching in John Lewis immediately after the show, we can only hope this side of the brand will continue to grow and we can see more mens looks next season.
The Sartorialist & Garance Doré
In terms of street style bloggers they done get much bigger than this! Scott Schuman (The Sartorialist) and the lovely Garance Doré were of course at London Fashion Week this weekend. I spotted them as I was leaving after the Jaeger show on the Saturday.
I’ve yet to be shot by either of them but that’s no shocker. So I settled for the next best thing and timidly asked if I could take their photo.
They were both ever so lovely and patient, as I’m sure at events like London Fashion Week they are repeatedly stopped and harangued. But if you produce some of the best blog material in an industry overloaded with bloggers it’s to be expected.
If you dont know who they are check them out at
Charlie Le Mindu - Autumn Winter 2011
This afternoon I managed to squeeze into Charlie Le Mindu’s show. Packed with freaks, geeks, beautiful people and fashion glitterati the excitement was there for everyone to behold. Here is the final piece of a collection that inspired everyone who saw it.
Le Mindu is going from strength to strength. I’ll be submitting a full review to Amelia’s Magazine, and more here later. In the meantime here’s a small teaser a what has so far been my favourite show of the week.
What no menswear reviews?
What with both Milan and Paris menswear weeks now a distant memory in fashion terms (3 weeks ago), some of you may well be wondering why no reviews? I mean after all this is a menswear blog isn’t it?
Well they shall be coming soon enough. Work has been a bit hectic of late, and this season I’m going to spread the reviews out over a longer period. I may have immersed myself in the utter madness of fashion month but you need not. That and New York Fashion week has only just finished and London doesnt start until Friday. Just sit back relax and let me cherry pick the most amazing collections over the next few weeks and months. Just in time for them to hit the store, and you to max out the credit credit cards.
In the meantime I’ll leave you with this little gem from Gant by Michael Bastian just off the runway in New York
Photo credit: Style.com
The other day I was doing some research into a big project I’ve got coming up so headed down to the Museum of London. Yeah, my job’s cool like that. Afterwards I slowly made my way back to the office enjoy the sites and sounds of the city. But mostly wandering through the Barbican. It made me remember all that I love about London. That despite its’ complete madness once you step off the beaten path path there are oasis of cool and calm to be found everywhere.
Its a crazy place to live and we all rush through it at the speed of light but sometimes when you step back the city spreads out at your feet and the insanity washes past you and just for that moment you remember that you live in one the most amazing cities in the world.
London is officially on my “next city to live in” list. This video by Alex Silver only helped solidify that.
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