Twitter // Bainser
Loading tweets...
Showing 13 posts tagged mcqueen
British Fashion Awards // Winners // Brief Rundown
This week saw the British Fashion Awards descend on the Savoy hotel in London. In terms of sheer glamour and style it is quite rightly one of the top awards shows in town. Being the fash packs Oscars everyone and I mean everyone dresses to impress, it takes the sartorial nonsense (and by nonsense I mean genius) of London Fashion Week to whole new heights. After all in the sprints to your allocated seat on the front row of any number of shows a modicum of practicality has to enter your mind. This event, no need it’s all out glam!
FYI - Remotely practical clothes can be one way to tell liggers and those attending shows for work apart. Emphasis on the word remotely!
As ever in the world of fashion, menswear played second fiddle to womenswear. This is no shocker and for once I’m not whinging about it. I dunno maybe I’m growing as a person or something. That or perhaps when we’re celebrating the great and the good of British Fashion there’s no room for bitching and instead let’s get on with cheering.
Unsurprisingly the award for Designer of the Year went to Sarah Burton of McQueen. Completely deserved in my eyes, despite not always being a fan of her menswear, Sarah Burton has brought McQueen to higher more feminine evolution. In this modern age she is championing the skills of the craftsperson and producing what is to all intensive purposes ready-to-wear couture. It’s breathtaking. Not to forget of course the dress. You know the one, seen and talked about by millions. No, not Pippa’s (a version of which is still available on Net-a-porter for a mere £1,995) but her sisters. Designed for the bride and not the cameras I really think this worked beautifully for her. From the long shots we got a glimpse of the intricate lace and white on white detailing. It was never going to show up on a zoom shot from rooftop hundred of meters away, and that’s a major part of why I loved it. In the most public of spectacles Sarah produced something both striking and intimate.
So massive massive well done and hope this topped off a great year for Sarah and her whole team
Model of the year, went to the very glamorous and gorgeous Stella Tenant, who is proving that in modelling it’s not always about the latest mid-teen from the Ukraine.
In terms of menswear there were two dedicated awards during the night. Menswear Designer of the year and Emerging Talent Award - Menswear. The nominees in for both awards were particularly strong. Kim Jones won Menswear Designer of the year, beating Margaret Howell and Oliver Spencer. Kim has worked with Dunhill since 2008, dramatically updating a great British brand, before moving to become style director of Louis Vuitton Menswear this year. I have no doubt he will go from strength to strength here. His debut collection in Paris this summer was a spectacular travel inspired fusion of ideas. Tapping into everything from the traditional fabric weaves of the Masai tribe, to the urban streetwear, it could have gone horribly wrong. It didn’t and I’m still debating which kidney I need least in order to get one of those scarves!
Photo : Style.com
The Emerging Talent Award went to Christopher Raeburn. One of the upcoming designers with eco-credentials to rival Greenpeace, Christopher saw off some serious competition in James Long and JW Anderson. His collaborations with the companies such as Victorinox (of the multi-functional Swiss Army knife fame) are only going to help build his brand and his prowess. His Spring Summer 2012 collection exploded with bright colour and style. Soft jersey, nylon, and ordinance survey like prints, highlighted his skills.
Photo credit: catwalking.com
So there’s a brief rundown of my highlights of the British Fashion Awards. I’m skipping Victoria Beckham’s deserved win, showing people just how to change career without being too big for your boots (take note Mr West), Christopher Kane’s reward for expanding our collective fashion horizons and more. I’ll also be posting soon on both Kim Jones and Christopher Reaburn’s success and collections. But in the highly unlikely event of people quizzing you in the pub this weekend about the BFA’s you should now have a cheat sheet to skip round.
Oh and if anyone at the BFA is reading this, I’d gladly offer up my first born for an invite to next year’s awards*
*Not really, well maybe, hell lets start there and barter down to something more socially acceptable shall we.
Aceessories // McQueen // Ladies
(via ohjulianzerega)
#bringMcQueenexhibitionhome // Petition // Please Sign
So the Met enjoyed more than 600,000 visitors to the undoubtedly amazing Savage Beauty exhibition of McQueens work. I could pretend I wasn’t disappointed the exhibition didn’t launch here in London, but my mother always taught not to lie.
The fact is there is no better city in the world to showcase McQueen’s work and talent than London, and most probably no better museum than the V&A.
So a campaign has been launched by Melanie Rickey, to bring the exhibtion home. Backed by Grazia, Katie Grand of LOVE, Lucy Yeomans of Harpers Bazaar, and more, a petition has been set up and momentum is building.
Please sign the petition below. Retweet and resend this post and the petition to everyone you know. McQueen was an utter genius and his home city should be lauding him like the champion he was.
Who knows, maybe just maybe we could go one further than New York and include some of his stunning menswear? But lets get the ball rolling with some baby steps first.
#bringMcQueenexhibitionhome
Menswear vs Resort // McQueen // Bainser Rants a little
In starting this blog I looked at others and as witty and as catty some might be initially the successful ones tended to grow up beyond that. Sure venting has its place but I deliberately chose not to. There are countless others out there who are happy to be harpies screaming into the wind. Not so many people are genuinely championing the successful or offering support rather than slating. I’ve broken this golden rule pretty much only once, and that was to ask Kanye to climb out of his own backside and produce some great music again. I even have high hopes for his forthcoming fashion range. Why? Because he’s comes across as genuinely passionate and has made the effort to learn how to design and the actual craft of making clothes. Something most celeb ‘designers’ just do not do.But he’s not the target of today’s rant.
No no, its a much more surprising target. McQueen!
I know! I know! Me having beef with the house of McQueen! Impossible! Next I’ll be telling you my image of Tom Ford is getting tarnished…erm…well anyway moving on.
The thing is I am still deeply in love with pretty much everything McQueen produces. I think Sarah Burton has an incredible eye and talent. Her last womenswear collection rocked it! Oh and by last collection I mean the mini Resort collection that debuted just a few days ago. It was stunning. Leather, cotton, tulle, all given the amazing McQueen treatment. Striking powerful cuts. Drama and romance. Everything we love from the house.
Genuinely fantastic pieces.
But hold on, wasn’t this week the Menswear shows in Milan? It was indeed, and this is where I’m left annoyed. The Menswear collection left many people a little cold. It felt incomplete and disjointed. Why the random flame jacket and shirt? Where was the drama? Where was the dynamic and dangerous? The whole collection felt, well bland. Last seasons military chic and strong colours, shapes and styles I thought heralded a return to form. I was excited again by the shapes, the tailoring and the whole experience. But this? No. Sorry.
I was happy to write it off. Everyone has off seasons, the pressures on designers is immense. But the very next day this stunner of a Resort collection arrives.
Now to those outside of fashion, Resort & Cruise are just names. But the fact is they have traditionally been mini seasons. Smaller capsule collections to drop newness into store midway through the larger season. It’s only in the last couple of years they have even been shown or presented on any scale at all, as it all takes place outside of the show season. Chanel’s resort collections are now lavish affairs, and it’s only a matter of time before the other houses follow suit.
So what’s my problem?
I just feel a little cheated. No, I don’t work in the McQueen studio, no I haven’t seen the design process in action in house, but looking at the two collections, one looks like it’s had more than it’s fair share.
Menswear will for a long time to come play second fiddle to womenswear. It’s something we’re used to. But surely, even if its in terms of sales a Resort collection can not be worth more than a whole season of menswear.
I know I’m spitting my dummy out like a petulant child, that’s seen his sister be given a shinier new toy than his. I don’t care. Menswear may be smaller than womenswear, but it’s a growing market. Men are becoming more adventurous, stepping outside the box and moving forward. We deserve a collections just as complete as womenswear. Without them how will men’s fashion continue to grow?
So there you have it. The toys-out-a-pram rant of a man that simply wants something better. A cohesive and daring men’s collection from a fashion house he loves and admires. If other houses can do it, why can’t McQueen. C’mon Ms Burton, I’ve seen the work you did last season. I’ve seen what you can do with womenswear channeling the anger and drama into something romantic, earthy and beautiful. Give us boys some credit.
Photo Credit: Style.com
Menswear // Milan Spring Summer 2012 // Bainser’s Picks
Pitti has been done and dusted, and once I’ve trawled through the countless blogs and street shots I’ll distill some key trends from the fashionistos present. Camo cargo pants and a navy jacket made a reappearance this season as well as a lot of bold colour blocking. But hot on Pitti’s heels come the menswear shows in Milan. I loved some shows, was a bit meh at others and was thoroughly disappointed with one in particular.
So what can you expect from Milan? Well Versace and Cavalli will be bold eurotrash, Armani will be classic and stylish whilst the D Squared boys will show a barely disguised 30 minutes of homoerotic lust. Not bad for a few days work really.
Shorts
Being Spring Summer Shorts were in abundance. From D&G’s silk/denim hybrids to Bally’s tailored short shorts, (Top Center Right & Left respectively), there was plenty to choose from. Missoni (Far right) & D Squared (Center bottom left) both showed luxe sheen fabrics, with Vivienne Westwood (Far left) and Marni (Center bottom right) showing a more clean crisp white look.
Personally am loving the fact the length of mens shorts is remaining mid thigh. Sure it means a bit more time needs to be spent in the gym but there is nothing wrong with seeing plenty of leg in the summertime.
Knits
Lightweight summer knits are brilliant especially considering the slightly erratic nature of the British weather at the moment. I mean c’mon its nearly the end of June, and those whinging of a drought have long since drowned under the torrents. My faves? The Gucci v-neck (bottom row right), McQueen stripe (far right large image), Pringle’s new fractured argyle (top row left). Armani (top centre), Band of Outsiders (top right), and Iceberg (bottom left) are all great, with Moschino’s summer cardigan really surprising me. In general I’m neither a fan of theirs or short sleeves on anything bar Tshirts. But this really works!
Formalwear
Oh baby yeah, from the structured to the more relaxed, insane prints, and that great cropped double breasted jacket from Z Zegna (middle). I love it all. In fact I even loved a bit of Cavalli (top left), which I almost never do! The Moschino print (top left) is crazy brilliant. You’ll only be able to wear this look once or twice but you will be the centre of the party when you do. Westwood (bottom left) triumphed with some great British tailoring and several brilliantly cut suits. Iceberg’s unstructured jackets (centre right, bottom left) brought a needed lightness to tailoring, whilst Etro’s (centre right) black on black detailing was brilliantly subtle.
Outerwear
Having endured weather that would make Noah wince over the last few weeks the need for a lightweight summer jacket has never been more obvious. Thank you Costume National (centre) for this gorgeous lightweight and soft trench. Armani (top & bottom right) really brought newness to the biker jacket and had great surface detailing. Whilst John Varvatos took my breath away with his lengthening almost buttery soft jackets (Centre right, bottom left). They looked warm and breathable, perfect for a summers evening. Bally’s leather hoodie (centre right) is something I’ve been coveting for a long time, I just didn’t know it yet. And as for Neil Barrett’s two tone cropped trench, well I’ve already yabbered on about it in another post.
Of course a round up of the Milan shows wouldnt be complete without a gratuitous Gandy shot. A legend now immortalised in a Dolce & Gabanna book the man is fantastic!
All Photos: Style.com
McQueen is dead….long live McQueen!!
So this could be the very last dress McQueen actually worked on. It wasnt shown in the collection in February and has only been worn by his muse and friend Anabelle Nielson.
It’s amazing. Cut exquisitely and with a collar of silvered feathers. I just want to see it on a real person.
Unless she’s been moved winged victory stands a top a great staircase in the Louvre. It’s a ridiculously over the top comparison but in some way this dress reminds me of that statue.
Alexander McQueen SS11
It was always going to be difficult seeing this collection. Its the firs tone to leave the house completely without Lee. This was always going to leave a big hole, and whilst that was felt in the muted tones and the signature tailoring and skills of the house were still there.
Perhaps everyone wanted a huge show, or something dramatic and explosive, but considering what must have been an incredibly difficult time for all involved I think this collection has come out polished. Key pieces like the brown jumper with bateau neckline, the beautiful trench, and the black morning coat still excited me along with the dip dyed suit. Stunning.
If anything this was a subdued welcome to Sarah Burton as creative director, an ideal launching pad for someone who worked so closely with McQueen himself. I look forward to seeing her handwriting evolve and develop along side what will hopefully by the continued success of the McQueen brand.
Hope may spring eternal, but when backed up by talent such as Ms Burtons, it is far from a leap of faith into the darkness.
High-res
FINALLY!!!!
Right I’m not one to bitch but with the ming that was everywhere at the Met ball recently am delighted to see some Lee McQueen being showcased. He was a legend and a master. The Met ball should have been a glorious tribute to his work, not the collection of nude toned ankle length vom that it was. So hurrah for Cate! Love her! Lets have much much more of his work on the red carpet this year. Or have we already moved on?
Cate in Alexander McQueen. Cannes film festival, 2010.
(via orphan)
16 heartbreakingly exquisite and sensational looks. Can only begin to imagine what the whole collection would have been like. Who knows what wonders this show would have held. Seeing this just highlights the loss the world of fashion has suffered. Though our hearts must go to McQueen’s family, friends, and colleagues. Whilst this collection is a fitting opus to his genius, it only highlights how much more he had to give.
…..and back to the world
So McQueen has passed on, the world, myself included mourned the loss of a genius and an inspiration, but the world kept turning. The King is dead, long live the King is an age old motto the residents of Buck House have adhered to for many a year and so must we all. PPR (those that own the McQueen name) have decreed the brand will continue to live on. A wish of McQueen himself and us all no doubt. But lets be honest those are stupendously huge shoes to fill.
How will the team complete this seasons collection due in Paris in just a few days, and who will be ordained as the new leader. Whilst I’d love to propose myself for the role, I have no doubt the phone will not be ringing off the hook begging me to jump on board. Though a huge part of me wishes someone will be picked from obscurity to lead the brand forward. Lets hope those in the know channel their inner Blow and pluck a young, reckless and vastly talented unknown to take over. Someone who will relish the task, simultaneously ignore and adore the heritage of McQueen’s genius. The fashion world once is again on tenterhooks, all this excitement and we still have 3 more fashion weeks to go through this season.
(via chrisbrownpr)
Out of principle I wouldnt reblog or link to a Daily Mail article. But this is shocking news and truely tragic news. Alexander McQueen was a true visionary, with incredible talent. From his tailoring to his ever increasing love of digital media and printing techniques McQueen pushed the boundaries of both mens and womens at all his shows.
An ispiration to me throughout my degree, and my fashion life. He will be sorely missed.
(picture source: guardian.com)
Milan Show Reviews
So today is the final day of the Menswear shows in Milan. I’ve been busy gleaming my favourite looks from everyone and will post a review on the shows as soon as I can. But so far soo good. The main thread of this season is without a doubt the Military and Masculinity. Be it the rugged yet polished mafioso of Sciliy or the British Officer in his Burberry trench, next winter is a time for men to be men.
My wish list has as always exploded and given unlimited budgets Trussardi, Burberry & McQueen would all be receiving multiple visits.
