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Showing 4 posts tagged spring summer 2012
Mr Start // Shirt Collection // Spring Summer 2012
On Friday Mr Start gave a soft launch of their new standalone shirt collection. I was early and got to speak to Philip Start before others arrived. It’s without a doubt always a pleasure to hear someone so enthusiastic about product, what they do, and what they create. Chatting to him about the thoughts behind the collection and how the brand was growing was great to hear, optimism is a rare commodity in retail right now. This shirt collection is an extension of their existing shirt range, it is howeverm designed to be worn more freely than just under a suit. Is Mr Start becoming more relaxed, more casual?
Well yes and no. The collection stands by itself and as mentioned isn’t designed specifically with the suit in mind, so yes it is slightly more relaxed. But the hallmarks of refined quality and taste still speak out. Each shirt is made of 2 ply cotton, though dropped into the classic lines we now find very fine prints where plain white’s and blue’s were before. The print is so fine from a far it has the appearance of a textured cloth, which excited me a little more than it should. But good design does that to me. We are also treated to a very pleasing range of collar shapes. Personally the club or rounded collar has been one of my favourites this season. It’s different and hardly anyone else wears it. But having seen the selection on show from Mr Start I may be swung around to new mini collar. It’s neat, sharp and perfect for what will I hope be a delightful summer next year.
As for the fit, well this is still Mr Start so it’s neat, but not to the point the of being restrictive. It will work dressed up with a suit, or great pair of trousers. To Philip’s dismay I will most likely team it with a super dark pair of jeans. It is after all my uniform. Cloth, fit, collar shapes and sizes, the collection works well on all parts that count. But like all great menswear its also the small details that count, be it mother of pearl, or fine square grey Corozo buttons, every last piece has been thought through.
The collection is due to drop in store late Spring, and frankly for me that’s the only downside to this. Fashion can be a cruel mistress, those of us in the industry often get to see product long before it actually hits stores. Samples are brilliant, but even then you have to wait and hope to get invited to the sample sale to get your hands on them, show’s can be mind blowing especially when you’re viewing Spring Summer in mid February freezing. I’m really not that patient, but I guess being made wait for something you really want has some advantages. I’m just not entirely certain I know what they are.
Unconditional // London Fashion Week // Menswear
I think my friend Ollie is beginning to think of me as some sort of fashion talisman for shows. Last season I cajoled her into joining me at Charlie Le Mindu, which left us both reeling and a little delirious in very very good way. So far this season I’ve dragged her along to Unconditional and Jayne Pierson, both of which were inspiring. Having left her quaffing champers with Notion magazine at the esthetica brunch to check out another show we caught up on the front row of the show. Glancing around we saw a very edgy and beautiful crowd. The venue was just ramshackle and industrial enough to compliment the crowd and as Jodie Harsh’s music began pumping the event could easily have shrugged off it’s fashion show mantle and descended into a full on club night. Jodie herself was seated in the front row just opposite alongside Pete Burns and partner.
Unconditional are growing rapidly and with collections like this you can see why. The womenswear was slick in both tailoring and draping, starting in black moving through brilliant yellows and pinks and into a deep burgundy.
When androgyny is done well it draws strengths from both genders and this collection certainly did that. A burgundy tailored jacket with black chiffon tails certainly highlighted Unconditional’s great eye for detail and balance.
As for the menswear…I’ll admit I was late to the party on this. Maybe I’m just not cool enough or something. But I feel in love back in June or so with their directional tailoring and cutting techniques. Menswear has a predefined set of rules that you must obey and to my delight Unconditional bend these as far as they will go. The brilliant colour and checks in the menswear had me clamouring for next summer already and I haven’t even psyched myself up for winter.
In addition to the collection I was delighted to spot Unconditional’s collaboration with the very lovely Úna Burke (I can say this as I met her later that evening and we joked about how hot a models ass looked in a pair of her leather hotpants!). Úna first showed an installation at the Hospital Club last season and has fast become an editorial favourite of the likes of Dazed and Confused. Her leather strapwork harness and gauntlets were stunning. Their apparent intricate nature is based on a simple yet beautiful framework. I have no idea where I would wear either but that doesn’t mean I don’t desperately want them!
I could harp on about this collection for hours, but I’d soon run out of synonyms for amazing and I’d rather not sound like some sort of sycophant. So let’s leave it that I am a massive fan and quite frankly you should be to.
Jasper Conran // Womenswear // London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2012
So I dont normally write about womenswear but when a good friend seats you behind Alexandra Shulman & Harold Tilman it’s prob the least you can do to jot down a few words. The Great British Summer or at least our childhood memories of it that actually had sunshine seem to be a recurring trend this season. There were definite elements of this at Jasper but only after having reimagined by a modernist architect.
Strong and immaculate lines graced the catwalk in a brilliant white punctuated occasionally with fuchsia, red and black. Thigh high splits were the order of the day and the back was without a doubt the erogenous zone of choice. It’s a tough look to pull of if you aren’t a model but given that items will only be available to order and Jasper runs a semi-couture house maybe you could get them tweaked.
Stand out pieces were the colour blocked red on white shift dress, and two stunning white dresses one with an angular powerful glazed tulle cape, looking both diaphanous and powerful, the other with slits up the side front and opposing side back looked breathtaking. Once again the problem with simplicity and looking effortless is a single stitch out of place destroys a piece. The showroom was apparently beavering away until 8 am to finish the collection and this dedication really paid off. Last season I loved the panelled dresses that were cunningly only stitch on the corners. This season the wonderfully finished open seams were back but in a more subtle way giving us the smallest hint of skin when we least expected it. Backs were either bare or with crossing straps like the most exquisite apron, and this is meant as a compliment, or with razor sharp racer backs.
To top this off the accessories complimented the idea of invisible strength and beauty with clear or blood red perspex clutches and handbags.
ps I soo need to get a new camera!
Neil Barrett // Spring Summer 2012 // WANT!!
So the month of menswear madness of Pitti, Milan, then Paris has begun. I could easily spend the next two months covering everything. The street style of the fash pack at Pitti has been incredible and inspiring. Several shows in Milan have been live streamed which I genuinely can’t get enough of.
But this is the first piece I have seen that has gotten me a little bit over excited. Its amazing and I want it now!! Two tone trenches aren’t new and have been bobbing around for the past few seasons in both Menswear and Womenswear. But this someone still looks fresh. Love it!
