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Showing 15 posts tagged suit
Pose // Menswear // Independent Success
Well written and genuine emails from people asking me to cover their brand are always gratefully received. Especially when its clear the person has actually read this site and are interested in what I do. Pose London was one such brand, a great independent label, with two stores in London already, one in Camden and one in Islington.
Ok so I’ve not yet been to their stores, but I fully intend to make a visit soon. They describe themselves as not being high fashion, but the suits and tailoring they are making is definitely directional. Clever use of seams, and small intricate details are really special in menswear. It’s all about the quirks that set your suit or shirt apart from the guy next door. By the looks of it these are also difficult to get right details from a pattern cutting perspective. Believe me when I say I know this, a curved seam is a sight to behold but in terms of pattern cutting can be a right pain in the arse. Especially if you are looking to create volume with it. Do it wrong and suddenly your beautiful crafted jacket makes David Gandy look like the fabled resident of Notre Dame. Even worse you may not discover this until the final garment is made.
You can see what I’m on about in the above shot of Matt Di Angelo, Lucien Laviscount and Ashley Walters, all of whom looking great in Pose. Though Matt could’ve worn a shirt, and pulled up his trousers a little. Then again it’s mid party so I guess I’ll forgive him that.
With shirts from £79, and jackets in the £345 price bracket they aren’t cheap, but then they aren’t too expensive either. The thing is what you are paying for is the skills of pattern cutting and the fact the collections are not mass produced on any great scale. Meaning the likelihood of you bumping into anyone in the same suit is minuscule. Which is luxury in itself these days. For those of you that can’t get to London they thankfully have an transactional website. I’m already eying up a hooded tweed jacket, which is something I’ve been hunting for a while. Though I’ll probably just head into the store to double check the fit.
Thing is they aren’t just about great suits and tailoring, the shirts they have on offer have a great fitted look. Bold design in geek meets English gent kind of way. And the shoes! Ok so these are more expensive than I normally pay, so may have to do land a big freelance job and treat myself to some after the cheque clears. Genuinely flicking through the online shop the shoes really stood out, I desperately want the above boot, their massive military boots and a pair of the hi-tops. (Actually that better be one or two freelance jobs!)
Anyway that’s frankly enough from me on the subject. But then I’ve always been about championing the independent retailers and designers, and these guys certainly hit the nail on the head.
Suits // Tattoo // Menswear
Courtesy of Trashness.
Menswear // Milan Spring Summer 2012 // Bainser’s Picks
Pitti has been done and dusted, and once I’ve trawled through the countless blogs and street shots I’ll distill some key trends from the fashionistos present. Camo cargo pants and a navy jacket made a reappearance this season as well as a lot of bold colour blocking. But hot on Pitti’s heels come the menswear shows in Milan. I loved some shows, was a bit meh at others and was thoroughly disappointed with one in particular.
So what can you expect from Milan? Well Versace and Cavalli will be bold eurotrash, Armani will be classic and stylish whilst the D Squared boys will show a barely disguised 30 minutes of homoerotic lust. Not bad for a few days work really.
Shorts
Being Spring Summer Shorts were in abundance. From D&G’s silk/denim hybrids to Bally’s tailored short shorts, (Top Center Right & Left respectively), there was plenty to choose from. Missoni (Far right) & D Squared (Center bottom left) both showed luxe sheen fabrics, with Vivienne Westwood (Far left) and Marni (Center bottom right) showing a more clean crisp white look.
Personally am loving the fact the length of mens shorts is remaining mid thigh. Sure it means a bit more time needs to be spent in the gym but there is nothing wrong with seeing plenty of leg in the summertime.
Knits
Lightweight summer knits are brilliant especially considering the slightly erratic nature of the British weather at the moment. I mean c’mon its nearly the end of June, and those whinging of a drought have long since drowned under the torrents. My faves? The Gucci v-neck (bottom row right), McQueen stripe (far right large image), Pringle’s new fractured argyle (top row left). Armani (top centre), Band of Outsiders (top right), and Iceberg (bottom left) are all great, with Moschino’s summer cardigan really surprising me. In general I’m neither a fan of theirs or short sleeves on anything bar Tshirts. But this really works!
Formalwear
Oh baby yeah, from the structured to the more relaxed, insane prints, and that great cropped double breasted jacket from Z Zegna (middle). I love it all. In fact I even loved a bit of Cavalli (top left), which I almost never do! The Moschino print (top left) is crazy brilliant. You’ll only be able to wear this look once or twice but you will be the centre of the party when you do. Westwood (bottom left) triumphed with some great British tailoring and several brilliantly cut suits. Iceberg’s unstructured jackets (centre right, bottom left) brought a needed lightness to tailoring, whilst Etro’s (centre right) black on black detailing was brilliantly subtle.
Outerwear
Having endured weather that would make Noah wince over the last few weeks the need for a lightweight summer jacket has never been more obvious. Thank you Costume National (centre) for this gorgeous lightweight and soft trench. Armani (top & bottom right) really brought newness to the biker jacket and had great surface detailing. Whilst John Varvatos took my breath away with his lengthening almost buttery soft jackets (Centre right, bottom left). They looked warm and breathable, perfect for a summers evening. Bally’s leather hoodie (centre right) is something I’ve been coveting for a long time, I just didn’t know it yet. And as for Neil Barrett’s two tone cropped trench, well I’ve already yabbered on about it in another post.
Of course a round up of the Milan shows wouldnt be complete without a gratuitous Gandy shot. A legend now immortalised in a Dolce & Gabanna book the man is fantastic!
All Photos: Style.com
Attention to Detail // Menswear // Pocket
So much love for this right now. Often when desiging for clients I’m asked to produce something that’s the same as last season but different. Yep that’s my brief same but different. This takes that up a notch. Tragically this kind of wild and crazy design would put many off buying the jacket. This saddens me. Men we should be championing things like this.
Same but different is not enough!
New, interesting and exciting, even if it’s a pocket flap most definitely is.
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So yeah, she’s pretty but lets look at this guys suit.
They can be nearly impossible to find and yes can smell like someone died in them but great vintage suits like this are epic. The fabric is killer. Great base colour, and the off centred window-pane check is great. It creates a dramatic point of difference from pretty much every suit that is out there at the moment. Often buttons will be tonal or darker than the main fabric but here are a great neutral or white colour. They look as though they are made of horn another quality.
Because of the way the check is designed on the models right side, the blue check disappears into the dart before emerging again on the pocket flap. I’ll be honest normally that would grate the crap out of me, (What can I say I’m really really fussy about things like that) but here it works.
photo credit: Aram Bedrossian
source: jeremydante.com
One fabric, 3 stripe settings. Do NOT try to create this look at home. This if I am not mistaken is a purpose cut suit from Hackett.
Even if you have 3 pieces that look like they might sit well together like this. They wont. It’s to do with the style, cut and most importantly dying. The base colour unless it comes from the same dye batch will never match and you’ll look like you’ve just cobbled together a suit.
A grey pair of trousers and a grey jacket is not the same as a grey suit.
However, should you stumble into Hackett and purchase this little beauty be very proud. Its epic. Instant sartorial cool.
Western
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Cillian Murphy looking amazing in this pinstripe suit. Astounding actor of many talents.
(via oldfilmsflicker)
WOW
WOW
WOW
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The Fashionisto - Photo of the Day
Great styling creepy and alluring!
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Dear Santa,
How’s it going up there in the North Pole?
Just had a thought that could help us both out, for the last 29 years I’ve a reasonably good boy all year waiting for you to visit on Christmas eve with my reward. It’s a pretty good track record if you ask me, so I’ve got a poposal for you.
Based on previous good behaviour how about you drop this great LV suit round in the next couple of weeks and I’ll be good for the rest of the year. Like a credit system for good behaviour really. I’ll get a sexy suit and you’ll have one less delivery at Christmas.
It’s a win-win scenario if you ask me.
Looking forward to your response.
Nick
aged 29 1/2
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Absolutely love the Salvatore Ferragamo suit. The high gorge line, low break & crisp peak lapel are clean and modern. Another wishlist addition, would be so helpful to win the lottery right now.
Spurr AW10
pin a few feathers on your lapel like Spurr fall/2010. a way to accessorize simply.
Been meaning to blog about the Spurr collection from last week. Thought it was really polished and super slick. Loved the detailing as pointed out above, but my favourite suit was the bright blue. Overall though loving the styling details be they feathers or luxurious pocket squares
source: gq.com
Jacket @ IKKS
Fantastic and cool, brilliant detail on lapel. Simple and gorgeous the way menswear should be. Added to my wishlist!
Trussardi 1911
Clearly I have been some kind of fashion ostrich with my head in the sand as Trussardi 1911, have only hit my fashion radar last season. Needless to say I’m in love! Buy it for me now please!
For me this collection hits all the trends being evoked this season. Masculinity, ruggedness and military. But it does so whilst simultaneously exuding a warm luxury through the colour palette and high quality fabrication.
photo credit: gq.com
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana had a very extensive show drawing inspiration from their Sicilian origins, and the films surrounding that beautiful isle.
With a vast array of styles and looks to dip in and out of the buyers must have been pleases as an army of buff models strode down the runway. Returning to their heritage always works wonders for Domenico and Stefano. Opening the Milan shows, the pair definitely set the tone of refined masculinity. This would be echoed across other shows in military looks, rugged outdoors, and youth inspired snowboarding, but by going back to the island the collection had an ispiring Italian feel. Milanese menswear is always held in high regard, but if these are the men of Sciliy it may be time look further south for inspiration.
With wide lapels in the dresswear section, and a sumptuous use of velvet and satin trims the luxury was self-evident but didnt smack you in the face. Suits remained slim and sharp, but you wouldnt expect anything else from this duo. The crisp tailoring was indeed razor sharp, and looked even better for being shown on men rather than androgenous boys.
The casualwear was largely denim with oily and dirty finish, so grimey you can almost picture the owner under the hood changing the oil on his mamas car in time to drive her to mass on Sunday. I cant say I’m head over heels with the single pleat denim jeans but will reserve judgement until I can get my hands on a pair.
Photo credit: gq.com
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Can someone please get me this suit & briefcase for Christmas?
from the Jak & Jil blog - excellent fashion and styling blog!!
